Soap nuts as silver polish

When I began to learn the art of silver-smithing from Mara Grimm a few years ago, she was possibly the only active teacher of traditional enamel techniques in Melbourne, if not in the state of Victoria, Australia. Mara is somewhat of a hippie (she had the Kombi-van and everything), and amongst the many things she imparted to me was this curious “natural” way of polishing using a peculiar-looking nut.

I didn’t think much of it then, but as I was setting up my own studio little by little, I knew I’d like to throw as little harmful substance down the sink as possible. I had a good supply of these strange little nuts from a tiny shop in Melbourne where Mara told me I could find them, but I would be needing more — only then it occurred to me to see if I could find anything about these magic nuts. If there are ways to make the process of creating jewellery more environmentally-friendly, I want to know how.

It took about an hour of hunting online, but I finally found what I was looking for. In English, they are simply called “soap nuts”, or “soapberries”, and there’s even a Wikipedia entry for them.

Soap nuts are incredibly versatile, they are the ultimate general-purpose cleaning agent. These seems to be endless uses for them, anything from laundry detergent to household cleaner. But as a jeweller, notes like this are particularly interesting:

Soap nuts are used by Indian and Indonesian jewelers to polish and remove the tarnish from gold, silver, and other precious metals.

I’ve found almost nothing written about the technique online, so here’s what Mara taught me:

  1. Boil some water.
  2. Once boiled, pour the water into a pot or a container that can handle the heat, preferably with a cover. I’ve noticed the soap-solution is more effective if left to sit overnight, so you would want to keep this in a place where it stays clean and re-usable.
  3. Take a soap nut, and hold it up to a flame until the leather skin sizzles a bit and begins to turn black, until the skin starts coming away a little from the inner seed. You can do this any way that you deem safe; I’ve held a nut with long metal tweezers to a candle or a cigarette lighter.
  4. Drop the soap nut into the pot or container of boiled water. Sometimes, the skin will flake off into the water; this is perfectly okay, even desirable, seeing as the saponin (the soapy substance) is in the skin.
  5. Use a metal brush or polishing cloth, dip it into water and use the water to polish your silver or gold.

The shine you get from this “polish” will surprise you. It does get a little wet, so I keep an amply supply of drying cloths or paper towels around.

So, where can you get these? There are a number of shops online that sell soap nuts, though mostly for laundry purposes. I happen to live close to several grocery stores that sell Indian produce and decided to go and find out if any of them happens to stock these. Finally, in a narrow middle aisle in one of them, tucked under things like tumeric and ground cumin, I found a small packet of “Aritha”. I paid $2 for about 30 nuts or so. Cool, no?

Soap nuts
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Safe for cats

Our beloved cat isn’t allowed out. Apart from the fact he has allergies and that the vet didn’t want to give him more shots than necessary, it’s just too dangerous around here where our home is surrounded by high-traffic main streets.

A friend/colleague of mine said he’s planning on building a cat pen, something similar to the pictures you see on this site. It looks like something cats would truly be able to enjoy even if we need to keep them safe.

My only problem with it is that it doesn’t really look all that good. Same reason why I don’t like cat trees. They stand apart in a space, looking like an afterthought.

In the spirit of good design, such as that of the ultimate cat house, I was thinking that if you had a big enough yard, it would be quite cool to create more tunnel-like structures that go right around the yard, underneath bushes and so forth, so that cats can hide as they usually like to do, and it would give them the opportunity of really exploring different places in the yard. For height, you can create archways and allow the cat to walk over the top, much like how cats like walking on beams with a view. And instead of leaving wires in plain sight, what about growing some creeper plants around it to give it some shade, and for kitty to hide and peep out?

Functional design, even for our cute, furry, clawed friends should look good for humans too.

Emile says 'play?'

Update:There are some examples similar to what I’m talking about, but again, I think there’s scope to meld these runs more into the landscape and make it part of your garden furniture.

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Ruskin and Slow Travel

As a quick followup to my previous entry on The Myth of Travel, a quote from John Ruskin which I picked from the last chapter of Alain de Botton’s excellent The Art of Travel:

No changing of place at a hundred miles an hour will make us one whit stronger, happier, or wiser. There was always more in the world than men could see, walked they ever so slowly; they will see it no better for going fast. The really precious things are thought and sight, not pace.

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Radio silence / moving house

There is something about the act of packing I find peaceful. Perhaps it’s because I’m accustomed to travelling, and packing is a little ritual that allows you to make peace with the fact that your surroundings will soon change. Or maybe it’s because packing is such a finite, predictable act. On a journey, you know more or less what needs to go with you (all those extra clothes you won’t wear will just allow for choice). It’s then a matter of making things fit into a bag.

But packing up and moving house is quite another matter. I’ve done this more times in my life than I’d care to count, including a couple of big moves from one side of the earth to another, from one hemisphere to another; moving house is just another ritual. Yet while packing doesn’t ruffle my feathers, unpacking is something I find immensely uncomfortable — there’s something disturbing about having to find a “permanent” place where things should belong. If I don’t consider the space I occupy in this life permanent, then how can I negotiate a home for things?

Two weeks after having moved into this new neighbourhood, my study/studio still resembles contemporary art gone wrong. Being one who dabbles in as many things as I can get my hands on, my art/craft equipment is varied, and my raw materials outweigh even my clothes, coming a close second to the number of books I own.

Several years ago, a friend asked, “Why not just throw everything away, and start afresh?” when she learned I’d shipped some of my things from Australia. I had an answer for her then, but I think I have a better answer now. When you’re a perpetual nomad, it’s not the where you put up your tent that matters, because you know anywhere you set foot can be home. Home could be almost anywhere provided I could bring tiny slices of my past and things I can build upon for a possible, immediate future — so I have physical reminders of who I am, who I have been, and some idea of how to tackle the road just ahead.

What seems to be an insurmountable hurdle is the time and energy it takes to make my physical work space an environment where I can be inspired in. So, for the next little while, there may be more than the usual amount of radio silence from me while I figure out what form this space should take.

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Staying Perpetually Inspired: Ada Lovelace Day

Marie-Chantale had asked me to speak at this month’s Creacamp on Ada Lovelace Day and also a bit on my own creative pursuits. It was brutal trying to fit everything in 10 mins, but I think I managed alright.

There should be a video available at some point, but for now, here’s my own low-fi audio recording and a few slides to go with it.

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Hypatia and the Renaissance Women

On the occasion of the first “Ada Lovelace Day”, which aims to highlight remarkable women in technology as potential role models for present and future generations of women, I started looking for the epitome of the “Renaissance Woman”.

The “Renaissance Man” is an archetype personified by the likes of Leonardo Da Vinci: artists, craftsmen, engineers; polymaths, often polyglots. Men of the renaissance were exemplary to the people of our time, we who are often struggling with varied interests and skills in an education and professional context that often rewards extreme specialisation.

I already knew of extraordinary women of the renaissance. Catherine de’ Medici, for instance, was educated, intelligent, rich and powerful beyond the reach of any other man or woman of her time. Yet I would not call her a “Renaissance Woman”, for little of her known history points towards achievements in the arts and science. Undoubtedly Catherine was a patron to the arts and versed in the science of politics, but a worthy counterpart to Leonardo or Gallileo she was not. Neither was Anna Maria van Schurman, Isabel de Castilla or other great women of that age: none of them seem to ever get anywhere near science.

Hypatia in “The School of Athens” - detail - by Raffaello Sanzio

I actually found one of the best examples of a Renaissance Woman in the age which the Renaissance was mimicking and rediscovering. Born around 350 AD, Hypatia of Alexandria was a scholar, philosopher, mathematician, and astronomer. Said to have been instrumental in the development of the hydrometer and the astrolabe, she ran her own school of philosophy, acted as one of the last librarians of Alexandria, and exerted immense political power over the region.

Hypatia’s extraordinary character, knowledge and freedom have inspired many romanticized accounts of her life. According to legend “she moved about freely, driving her own chariot, contrary to the norm for women’s public behavior”, and the Suda, the collected history of Byzantine Greece, tells how she rebuffed a suitor by showing him an unglamorous pile of rags stained during her periods.

It is because of her death, however, that she is still so well known today. Caught in a political feud between the imperial power and rising christianity, she perished at the hands of an angry christian mob in one of the most gruesome deaths since Hector’s fate at the hands of Achilles: dragging her from her carriage, they took her to the church called Caesareum, where they completely stripped her, and then murdered her with tiles.* After tearing her body in pieces, they took her mangled limbs to a place called Cinaron, and there burnt them. (dixit the Ecclesiastical History).

Her death in the midst of political and religious conflict, unfortunately, makes it difficult to know truth from fiction. To Voltaire and the deists of the 18th century, she was the “most beautiful, most vertuous, most learned, and every way accomplish’d lady”, as John Toland wrote. To others, she was “A most Impudent School-Mistress of Alexandria.”

This detour through history provided me an unexpected clue in understanding why the Renaissance had produced so few “Renaissance Women” that we would still know of them today. A biography of Hypatia by John, Bishop of Nikiu, reads: there appeared in Alexandria a female philosopher, a pagan named Hypatia, and she was devoted at all times to magic, astrolabes and instruments of music, and she beguiled many people through (her) Satanic wiles.

The terms used are strangely reminiscent of another age, that of witch hunts. Our collective psyche would generally place those shameful, dark times during the middle age, and I had to double check that my hunch was correct: coincidentally, witch hunts happened during the exact same period as the civilised renaissance, between the 15th and 18th century AD. If Renaissance men dabbling in engineering and alchemy were considered the pinnacle of civilisation while their female equivalents got burnt at the stake, is it surprising that we have no history of smart women of arts and science during that period?

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Dark side of the moon

My fascination with moonstone probably originated from the fact it was listed as one of my birthstones. Notwithstanding that the modern set of birthstones is a ploy by the American National Association of Jewellers to market what stones they most wanted to sell, even the milkiest of moonstones have a semi-transparent depth that carry a secret shimmer, making it one of the most interesting stones where each is always a little different from another.

Photo of the back of 'dark side of the moon' necklace

The lore around the moonstone typically associates it with a wind or water element and is — it goes without saying — closely linked to the moon and its goddesses. Its symbolisms are plenty: anything from balancing emotions to fertility and intuition; attributes fairly typical of a stone related to wind or water.

I encountered the labradorite much later in life without knowing what it was, though its iridescent qualities reminded me much of the moonstone. In delving a little more into the mineral composition, it’s no wonder that these two stones are closely related: they are both feldspar minerals. I know too little about how the chemical composition works, but the lore around the labradorite is as weighted as that of the moonstone. Consider this list of metaphysical properties; there are many others, and it’s curious that we should attribute so much meaning and power to a gemstone.

Of all the lore that exists about the labradorite, one little thing that caught my attention is that the labradorite is also called “the dark side of the moon”.

That was all the inspiration I needed for this piece: a necklace featuring a gorgeous labradorite bead with satellite moonstones as the center piece, held together with erratic macramé of black cotton and dyed hemp, punctuated with smaller moonstone and labradorite beads.

Photo of a necklace: center piece of labradorite and satellite moonstones, clusters of small moonstone and labradorite beads held together in erratic macramé of black cotton and dyed hemp.

2009 Oct Update: This necklace now belongs to Nicole Sullivan.

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The Myth of Travel

Before the 20th century, travel was slow: months on a boat or on roads. Travel was the hardships of migration for most, formative fun for the well off, and adventure for novel heroes. Then came a century of wars and population displacement. But between those wars, a few strange things happened. The 1930s saw the invention of paid vacation, and thus, mass tourism. 1936 France saw beaches turn from the realm of the happy few to a swarm of proletarian bathing. After World War II – which also gave us commercial airlines – most western countries implemented drastic income compression, and created a large middle-class society.

The middle class no longer felt satisfied with mere time off, no longer wanted to go pile up in countryside camps or popular beaches. The middle class wanted more. The middle class longed for luxury.

Whoever invented the concept of “Luxury for all” probably had a finger or two in the invention of travel as a unique, glamorous experience. YOU can walk hand in hand with your tanned beloved on a desert, pristine beach. YOU can witness the same mystical sight of the adventurers of old: sunrise over Angkor Wat; sunset in Macchu Pichu. YOU will get all that with VIP treatment. YOU… and a few other thousands, too.

We the middle class believed in this story. All VIPs, all special, all travellers. We believed in the prose of Paradise in travel brochures, we believed in glossy pictures of palm trees. And yet, travel does not happen. Layovers do. Airport security that treats you, by default, like a criminal. “remove shoes, belts, and put any liquids in a plastic bag”. Whether you queue like cattle at check-in, during boarding, or pay extra for the real VIP service of faster service and impersonal lounges, travel does not happen. You leave a nondescript, “international” airport, spend hours hurled in a black buzzing box through the troposphere, and end in another, eerily similar, nondescript, “international” airport.

How can air travel, the most glamorous thing in the world, be so miserable? Or maybe air travel never existed. If there are some people thinking that man never went on the moon and that it was all fabricated, why isn’t there anyone questioning the sham of air travel, wondering if we’re travelling at all? The travel, I was told long ago, is in the journey, not the destination. Not in fancy hotels where everyone speaks perfect English and you get an iPod to bring with you to the gym. Not in third-world streets where kids have long learned the art of putting rich tourists ill at ease, feeling guilty of their gross wealth and waistband.

In this sense there is more travelling being done when anyone decides to walk their city across – East to West, South to North, whichever way makes sense. There is a departure, a destination, cityscape slowly offering itself to our gaze, much to discover, many to meet. Paradoxically, I learned: the faster you go, the less you travel.

Sometimes I wonder if current crises may not be an opportunity to redefine travel. Ditch those silly palm trees where to many seek lonely shade and lovely enlightenment: it’s just too expensive, burns up too much oil to get there anyway, and no-one ever returned from there a happier person. Not so far, not so fast. Bring back the journey.

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Where have the turtles gone?

Charcoal drawing of a money bag on a flat world, on the back of an elephant.
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The travelers’ dream of the Big House

I learned a second language at age 9. A third and fourth at 13. I was not particularly fortunate, or living in a very international family or region. This was pretty much what every little European went through at the time.

Back then, we had pen-pals from England. They had a different language, a different upbringing, a different culture. They had a meal called “tea” and swear words that our America-influenced TV didn’t even know of. They were but a hundred kilometres away, and yet so alien to our adolescent eyes.

There was no clear reason why we were made into such culturally permeable youth. In the 1980s and early 1990s, “Globalisation” wasn’t even a fashionable term yet, and the concept of a “grand tour” of Europe as a way to perfect the education of the well-off was a thing of the past under our longitudes. Post world-wars European nations just happened to try to stick together for a change, and teaching kids to talk with their neighbours carried some hope of a lasting peace. To our parents’ generation, it just seemed like a good idea at the time, just like speaking mostly Spanish to my (French) best friend in high schools just sounded fun.

Fast forward a decade or two, and I’d ended up living on three distinct continents. And with a generation scattered around the globe, with friends from Oslo to Buenos Aires, from New York to Shanghai, I share a recurring dream. Not a month passes without hearing about that dream, or having it myself: living in one big house with all my friends, my family, all my loved ones.

There is no such place, and yet I have seen it, again and again. In dreams.

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